Day 24: Friday, Senegalese people I’ve met, Orchestra Baobab

The beginning of today was just like any other day here in Yoff: shower, breakfast (baguette, obviously), and French class. After French, we had a lecture on nutrition, and how it has changed in Senegal. We learned about the effects of colonization on imports, nutrition, diet, etc.

After lunch we did an activity on the difference of authority figures in American and Senegalese cultures. In general, it’s uncommon that any Senegalese person would challenge authority, whether it is a teacher, parent, boss, etc.

After class got out, we tried to enjoy our Friday afternoon by going to the beach. However, Alison, Rich, and I found that the ocean water was once again pretty dirty. We’re trying to figure out whether it’s caused by the tides, the rain, maybe even the full moon? Whatever the cause may have been, the state of the ocean greatly disappointed us.

After another dinner (or more specifically, stuffing), Rich and I went to Via Via a small hotel/restaurant for backpackers. We had a drink or two and then walked to Cresp where we met up with three more of the Americans as well as Fatou Lo.

Let me explain where we were going: The Wolof teacher is named Rudy Gomis. Rudy is in a band called “Orchestra Baobab”, which is apparently a famous afro-Cuban bad that has toured around the world many times and is pretty famous. Orchestra Baobab was holding a concert at a small bar/dance club in Dakar. So we all piled in to taxis, and eventually found the place. Note: Without Fatou Lo, we would have been helpless.

We got there pretty early, and just sat and hung out for a while, waiting for the concert. Finally around 1, the concert started. These guys were good. (Compare them with the Beuna Vista Social Club, who everyone seems to know…) We had tons of fun listening to them play, hanging out, and eventually dancing a lot. Even me.

We left around 345 and got back to our house around 430: overall, quite a good night.

Because this entry was rather short, I’ll take some time to answer a few questions that I’ve been asked. I’m posting them here for everyone to see:

1. What are the Senegalese people like?

The Senegalese that I’ve come into contact such as my family, teachers, program assistants, and fellow students have all been extremely nice. Everyone is very generous and willing to share all that they have. A few things that I found interesting about them: They never raise their voices. It’s also extremely rare that they will challenge any order given to them by an authority figure. They never complain.

As for the people that we don’t know: some are very nice and some are very weird and creepy. Lots of people will come up to you on the street and ask you to come to their house for tea or a meal. Not all of these people mean badly; in fact, most of them don’t. However, it’s been hard to get over what we’ve been taught our whole lives: “Don’t speak to strangers.” Every day, at least seven or eight children will come up to us and ask us for money. Some just hold out an empty tomato paste can. Others will be more direct and say “Donnes-moi l’argent” (Give me money.) I’ve been asked for my watch, cell phone, even my bottle of water. Older people will also approach us and try to sell us things, tell us that we are friends, etc. When we walk in the city as a group sometimes, we will have sort of an entourage of Senegalese people, none of whom we know.

Now that we have been in Yoff for almost a month, people are starting to recognize us and understand that we are students living with families, not tourists passing through. Nonetheless, the badgering hasn’t completely stopped. One last thing: Because we are white foreigners, people think that they can rip us off. For example, we were taking a taxi back home the other day, and we knew the price should be about 1000CFA. However, we asked the cab driver how much it would cost (because you settle this before you get in the cab) and he said 5000CFA. We laughed at him, and eventually managed to bargain our way down to 1000. This happens everywhere we go that doesn’t have set prices. In defense of these people this can’t be seen completely as “screw the tourist.” Marian explained to us that they believe we have money, and because we’re here, they have a right to have some of it. There’s such a strong sense of community here and communal property, that they really believe that some of our money/possessions are theirs.

While I’ve just spent a while being negative, I’d like to make the point that: Without the Senegalese staff and the integration/cooperation with the Senegalese students, this trip wouldn’t be worth going on.

2. “How does your family afford the enormous amounts of food they feed you?”

Our family (and all of the others hosting Americans) receive $6 per student per day to house and feed us. With this money, our family is able to amply supply food for us (good food I might add.) Our family might be different from other host families, but Rich and I get plenty of protein, comprising of fish, beef, and chicken once (which was amazing.)

3. “Does the US dollar go a long way in buying power?”

Yes and no. Some things are very cheap, while others are quite far from that. For example, a full size baguette costs 125CFA, which is less than a quarter. However, a box of Rice Krispies costs 3500CFA ($7) at the Shell station. Basically, if you buy domestic/local products, you will find great prices. Rich and I buy grilled corn from a street vendor for 25CFA. You pick off the kernels and eat them; they kind of taste like popcorn. Cab rides can also be gotten for small amounts. I’ve written earlier that we’ve paid $3 for 30-45 minute cab rides. As for the actual exchange rate of the dollar, its about 510CFA to one dollar. In comparison, 1 Euro will get you about 640CFA.

Well, that’s all the questions for now, I’ll answer some more in tomorrow’s entry.